Today we were planning to visit the Khunjerab pass but the driver told us that we cannot go right up to the pass as there is an immigration post at Sust. We did not have the papers to go up to the pass. He, however, agreed to take us further on the KKH before returning to Gilgit.

It was a pleasure to drive on the highway and observe some of the most fantastic mountain scenery in the world. Khunjerab Pass is a 15,600 foot high pass between the Chinese and Pakistani border. Its name means "Vale of Blood”, a reference to the violence that occurred during raids by bandits on the caravans going to Central Asia. Claimed to be the highest border crossing in the world, the pass is broad clearing of rock and grass. One usually sees the grazing yaks, and sometimes the ibex. It is surrounded by snow-capped mountains with clouds on top. The Chinese traveller Fa-Hian has described the route in his accounts, “The way was difficult and rugged, running along a bank exceedingly precipitous. When one approached the edge of it, his eyes became unsteady; and he wished to go forward in the same direction, there was no place he could put his foot, and beneath were the waters of the river called the Indus.” Incidentally, the Khunjerab Pass is near the place where the world's five highest mountain ranges, the Himalayas, the Karakorams, the Hindu Kush, the Kunlan Shan, and the Tien Shan all meet. Also nearby is 18,000-foot Karakoram Pass which was used by Bactrian camel caravans until 1950s. Six countries also come together here. These are China, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and the former Soviet republics of Tajikstan and Kyrgyzstan.

It was a pity that we could not go right up to the pass. We drove along the highway which ultimately leads into China and Central Asia. The scenery now changes and we seem to be more in our part of Ladakh. The barren brown mountains with distant icy tops. There are some dramatic mountains and glaciers on the way. The road is not as good as it was from Gilgit to Hunza. There were some plans to widen and upgrade it. On June 30, 2006, a memorandum of understanding was signed between the Pakistani Highway Administration and China's State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission (SASAC) to rebuild and upgrade the Karakoram Highway. According to SASAC, the width of the highway was planned to be expanded from 10 metres to 30 metres, and its transport capacity was to be increased three times. The upgraded road was planned to be constructed to particularly accommodate heavy-laden vehicles and extreme weather conditions. China and Pakistan were also planning to link the Karakoram Highway to the southern port of Gwadar in Balochistan through the Chinese-aided Gwadar-Dalbandin railway, which extends up to Rawalpindi. This upgradation may have already been done but I am not sure of that.

After going along Hunza River up to Passu, we decided to turn back. The scenery consisted of brown mountains with pinnacles sticking into blue sky. However, we were more close to snow clad mountains than our part of Ladakh except in Suru valley of Kargil where the Nun Kun massif has glaciers coming right up to the road. There are some dramatic mountain views like the Tango Towers and the Batura Glacier. We enjoyed the return journey to Gilgit more as we were driving at ease watching the mountain scenery. This route has now become a popular trail for the tourists from all over the world. Apart from Tourist coaches starting from Samarqand to Islamabad, there is now a regular coach service between Gilgit and Kashgar. It takes 16 hours drive from Kashgar to Gilgit. Earlier the travel must have taken weeks on horse back or the Bactrian camels. Another interesting aspect which has now been incorporated in the travel between China and Pakistan for the people living in close proximity of the border is the issue of permits by local authorities. This is a very good confidence building measure for people living in the proximity of border areas. Similar measures had been initiated across Line of Control in Jammu & Kashmir but these have remained symbolic and are static and cumbersome. These days there are hardly any passengers on the cross LOC bus because of cumbersome and lengthy clearance procedures from both the countries. It is reported that there are over 10,000 cases pending for clearance.

While driving back, I started a conversation with the driver. Usually drivers are the best source of information about the situation in a place. Gilgit those days was more or less like a colony. There was a Chief Secretary and a Commissioner for Northern Areas; both are Civil Service of Pakistan Officers of senior level. They are the chief bosses of the entire area. People resented very much the attitude of the federal government. The area was quite backward and almost our Ladakh of mid-sixties and early seventies. Local people had no say in the day to day administration. In fact, there was growing resentment against the Pathans from North West Frontier Province who had been coming and settling here as shop-keepers. I recalled the Ladakhi resentment against Kashmiris who were also acting as colonial masters! Subsequently, the local resentment had considerably grown and recently, the Pakistan Government has given the area virtual status of the fifth province of Pakistan. However, they continue to be like a colony. In fact, the demand for a provincial status had very much grown after the accord of Hill Council status in our side of Ladakh. Incidentally, the majority of people were not for secession but wanted full fledged status of a province like Punjab and Sindh. They had joined Pakistan in 1947 of their own volition but had been regretting the step because of the step motherly treatment meted out to them by the federal government. Neither Pakistan owned them nor did the Pakistan Administered Kashmir Government care for their problems. They had been totally left on their own! In spite of the apparent devolution of some powers, the resentment continues and the area is still simmering. There are some groups propagating total independence.

Back in Gilgit in the afternoon, I had the same nostalgic feeling of having visited a totally different land, as I had on my return to Srinagar after first visit to Ladakh in 1974! Hunza is definitely a captivating land with its stark mountains, terraced fields, and a strange but friendly people. Somehow time seems to stand still there! Next day we were set to have our last excursion near Gilgit area. This was a day trip to Naltar which I would like to call the Sonamarg of Gilgit-Baltistan! A beautiful summer resort turning into a Ski station in winter.

(To be continued….)