The cross border travel has an interesting third option which in spite of repeated Indian requests has been cold shouldered by the Chinese. This is the opening of the round the year route to Kailash-Mansarovar through Demchok. One could even travel right up to Lhasa in Tibet through this route which was frequently used in the past by the Lamas of Ladakh for attending advanced studies in Buddhism there. If this connection too is restored, the travel safari in this area would be unique in the world. While mentioning of safari, one is reminded of the Himalayan Car Rally. The original rally was started in 1988 from Delhi to Srinagar. It was known as the Great Desert Himalaya Raid. Starting from Delhi, the participants in the rally would first traverse the deserts of Rajasthan and then proceed to Manali in Himachal Pradesh. From here, the rally went to Leh and Kargil and then finished at Srinagar. It traversed some of the most difficult terrain and out of 130 odd participants only 33 reached Srinagar. Due to the turmoil of 1990, the rally had to be discontinued up to Srinagar. It returned from Leh and subsequently was given up. However, the Himalayan Motor Sport Association based in Shimla revived the rally as the Raid de Himalaya in 1999. The rally went from Shimla to Leh and returned by the same route. In 2001, the rally was extended up to Kargil and finally in 2005 it finished at Srinagar. In 2007, due to an unusual snowfall of more than 5 feet in early October, the rally had to turn back. Then 2008 was a year of turmoil in Srinagar and the rally once again turned back from Leh. However, this year the rally made it to Srinagar once again. This time they also visited Padam, the headquarter of Zanskar. Once again the toughness of the rally was such that out of 105 participants who started from Shimla, only 63 were able to finish in Srinagar. These included 55 four wheelers and 8 two wheelers. Visiting Srinagar was a big event for the participants. They had been greatly alarmed by the media reports and were surprised to see everything going on normally. They travelled all over Srinagar and were given a grand reception by Tourism Department. In fact, House Boat Owners’ Association offered them 15 complimentary rooms for two days. Some hotels in Pahalgam also offered free accommodation. They were dancing in the Golf Club till midnight! This has been an important event to convey the possibilities of tourism all corners of the country from where these participants came.

An interesting project for cross border tourism can be extending the rally to the other side. One can plan a rally from Delhi to Islamabad across the Himalaya and the Karakoram. The rally after starting from Delhi could go to Shimla and thence to Manali for the night halt. It would then pass through Manali and go to Leh. In between there may be a night out in an open camp on Manali-Leh road possibly at Sarchu. From Leh they can drive down to Kargil and after crossing LOC have a night halt in Skardu. Next day they could cross Gilgit and have a night halt in Astor to have breathtaking view of Nanga Parbat. Finally from here they will drive down to Islamabad for the finish. A straight type of rally without any diversions can be completed in a week’s time. However, with variations including driving along Pangong Lake, and crossing over Khardongla, the highest motorable road in the world, and visiting Zanskar and Kashmir valley (Srinagar), the rally can be of 10 to 15 days duration. It would be in true sense something more tough and challenging than the famous Paris-Dakar rally. One could call it a dream rally of the future for the motoring enthusiasts. Apart from competitive rallies of International standards, the routes can be used for adventure safaris by normal tourists.

Thus the possibilities of cross border tourism are immense. These may all at present seem a utopian dream but given the political will on the two sides and the urge to copy the European Union model for solving the problems of this area, the goal can be achieved. One has to proceed in a systematic way. The first step would be to make the cross LOC travel absolutely free without any restrictions at all for the state subjects on both sides. Here, the example of travel between India and Nepal can be given. The only requirement for this cross border travel between India and Nepal is an ID card. These days the era of smart cards has begun even in the sub-continent. Cards are made with a micro-chip inside giving complete details of the person whose movements can be tracked through a satellite. After allowing state people to travel as normal tourists to two sides, conducted group tours can be undertaken. For this an interaction between the tour operators and travel agents from two sides can be organised. In addition, FAM tours to tourist destinations can be conducted. There can be exchanges between students, professionals, media persons and others. In order to make travel easier, people should be allowed to travel in their own private cars. This will ease the travel and also increase the number of travellers.

The second stage in cross border tourism may be difficult to achieve because of the nature of the border. It is known as the Line of Control or LOC and is not a recognised international crossing point. However, a via media can be found. Visitors from mainland Pakistan can be allowed to visit the Indian side without an Indian visa on a temporary permit issued in Muzaffarabad. However, they will not be allowed to go outside J & K into mainland India and would have to return across LOC to mainland Pakistan. Similarly, visitors from India can be issued a permit in Srinagar or Baramulla to cross LOC. They too will not be allowed to go to mainland Pakistan and would have to return by re-crossing LOC. There can be many other ways of allowing the people from India and Pakistan to visit all parts of the erstwhile state of J & K. The same procedure can be used for the foreign travellers visiting two countries. They can be allowed to visit the entire state and also exit from either side provided they have visas for both countries. These are some ideas to develop and promote cross border travel by all categories of people. The detailed procedures can be worked out jointly by the authorities on two sides once it is agreed in principle to promote cross border tourism. There are a number of organisations specialising in peace through travel and tourism. One of these based in Vermont USA is known as the International Institute for Peace through Tourism (IIPT). They can be approached for assistance in working out arrangements and procedures for cross border tourism. Their mission statement states, “The International Institute For Peace Through Tourism (IIPT) is a not for profit organization dedicated to fostering and facilitating tourism initiatives which contribute to international understanding and cooperation, an improved quality of environment, the preservation of heritage, and through these initiatives, helping to bring about a peaceful and sustainable world.” They already have a Pakistan chapter. I have not been able to locate an Indian chapter. The Indian can be established after contacting the Institute. It may also be possible to approach the UNWTO. The United Nations World Tourism Organisation for guidance as both the countries are members of this world body monitoring tourism activities throughout the world. However, these measures will be required once we have reached the final stage of cross border tourism. If the détente between the two countries progresses to a reasonable level, we may be able to resolve all problems among our own selves and may not need international assistance. The prime requirement is to accept the necessity of introducing cross border tourism both as an activity for reconciliation, peace, and economic betterment of the people on both the sides. Once this is done, other actions will follow in the natural course.

(Concluded)